Climbing Mad ScientistClimbing Physiology & Performance
About Coach Ben McKellar, MSc

Bridging Laboratory Science and Climbing Performance.

I am an exercise physiologist and climbing coach based in Toronto, Ontario. I use repeatable strength, power, and endurance tests to add objective context to what athletes and coaches observe on the wall.

Coach Ben McKellar, MSc - Exercise Physiologist and Climbing Coach
Ben McKellar, MScClimbing Specialist

Exercise Physiologist • Climbing Escalade Canada Project Experience • Toronto, ON

Academic & Professional Foundation

Science Backed by Verified Credentials

Ben’s approach is grounded in academic training, published climbing research, documented testing procedures, and practical coaching experience.

MSc Human Health & Nutritional Sciences

University of Guelph

Completed in the Human Performance and Health Research Laboratory, with research on blood-flow-restriction training and climbing performance.

Exercise Physiologist

High-Performance Sport

Experience supporting high-performance athletes and contributing to Climbing Escalade Canada projects, including RBC Training Ground athlete selection.

Climbing Physiology Experience

Climbing Escalade Canada (CEC)

Presented at the 2024 High Performance Competition and contributed to CEC projects, including RBC Training Ground athlete selection.

Peer-Reviewed Researcher

Climbing Performance Research

Co-author of peer-reviewed studies on World Cup bouldering time management and blood-flow-restriction training in climbers.

Peer-reviewed publications

Published climbing research

Read the original studies behind Ben's work in bouldering tactics and climbing physiology.

CEC 2024 speaker profile
Journal of Human Kinetics, 2023First author

Time Management Strategies of Rock Climbers in World Cup Bouldering Finals

Analyzed attempt, rest, and climbing-time patterns in World Cup bouldering finals to identify practical competition-strategy insights.

Read the paper
European Journal of Sport Science, 2026First author

The Effect of Blood Flow Restriction Training on Rock Climbing Performance, Forearm Blood Oxygenation and Cardiovascular Responses

Examined whether adding blood-flow-restriction training improved climbing performance and physiological outcomes beyond climbing training alone.

Read the paper
The Mad Scientist Philosophy

Physical Testing in the Context of Climbing

Climbing performance reflects physical, technical, tactical, and psychological factors. Testing focuses on measurable physical qualities—strength, power, and endurance—without pretending that one number explains performance.

01

Climbing-Specific Support

Testing and training are selected around the demands of the athlete’s climbing discipline, experience, goals, and available training time.

02

Test, Don’t Guess

Physical testing measures specific qualities; it does not explain every climbing outcome by itself. Results are interpreted alongside technical performance, tactics, training history, and the athlete’s goals.

03

Maximum Force & Fast Force

Rate of force development describes how quickly force rises from a steady baseline. Ben may assess the force-time slope or force reached at defined points such as 100 and 200 milliseconds.

04

Measure Change Over Time

Repeat testing shows whether the intended physical quality changed. A check-up can support training decisions, but performance testing is not a medical diagnosis or a guarantee of injury prevention.

Precision Measurement

Equipment & Documented Test Methods

Equipment and procedures vary by package. Consistent setup, clear instructions, and repeatable test conditions matter as much as the device itself.

See Premium Testing Battery
1

Force Transducer / Load Cell

Tindeq is specified for the basic procedure and Phidgets equipment for specialized package testing.

Used with 10mm or 20mm edges and a ring attachment to measure force; higher-frequency data support RFD and critical-force analysis.
2

10mm / 20mm Edges & Ring

Standardized attachments are used for finger-strength and ring-pull trials in a controlled body position.

Max-strength trials build force progressively, with 2–3 maximal attempts and consistent rest between attempts.
3

Pull-Up Velocity

Measures movement speed on a pull-up bar, 20mm edge, and 10mm edge.

Comparing conditions helps separate arm-pulling power from the ability to transfer force through the fingers.
4

Vertical Jump Measurement

Assesses general lower-body power using a GymAware device or a wall-mounted measuring tape, depending on the package.

The documented wall-touch procedure uses three attempts, a countermovement, and no backward arm swing before take-off.
Home Base & Regional Coverage

Rooted in the Ontario Climbing Community

Travel is free when testing takes place at Hogtown Bouldering. Ben also travels to other facilities in the GTA and Southern Ontario using the published travel rates.

Ben previously coached at Boulder Parc and Up The Bloc and continues to work with climbers, coaches, teams, and parents.

Quick Facts About Coach Ben

  • Home Gym: Hogtown Bouldering, Toronto
  • Previous Coaching: Boulder Parc and Up The Bloc
  • Testing Focus: Strength, power, and endurance
  • Social: Follow on Instagram @ben_mck2
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